I remembered:

There are no states
“Fu, how rough,” said Ostap, entering, “it is immediately visible that it is a province. They would write, as they write in Moscow, “No shirt”, decently and nobly. People are happy at home.

— — —
Chelyabinsk region, a small town. At the door of the zoo! It says there is no fish. Imagine how people go there:
For me, please, two hundred grams of guppies, half a kilo of barbus and a kilogram of gold.